Huanchaco, a coastal village in northern Peru, is known for its beautiful beaches, which are perfect for surfing. When you visit Huanchaco, you can see people riding modern surfboards in the powerful waves of the Pacific Ocean. But not far from the hustle and bustle of these surfers, there is another type of surfboard on the beach – a surfboard that has existed for thousands of years. These ancient reed crafts, called “caballitos de totora” (little reed horses), are more than just boats. They are an essential part of Peruvian history and culture, possibly making Peru one of the first places to invent surfing.
The Birth of the Caballito de Totora
The caballito de totora is a unique reed boat dating back over 3,500 years, used by ancient people living on the coast of Peru. These boats were essential to fishing, as they allowed fishermen to cut through the strong waves to reach their fishing areas and then surf back to shore with their catch. Reed boats are made from totora,
a type of reed that grows in freshwater ponds near the coast. Unlike modern surfboards, the caballito is not flat, but rather crafted from bundles of totora reeds that are tied tightly together. The boat has a narrow, upturned bow that cuts through the water and allows it to ride up and over the waves. This design has remained virtually unchanged for thousands of years, making the caballito a piece of living history and an enduring part of the local culture. Hawaiian heritage older than surfing? When most people think of surfing, they probably imagine the warm beaches of Hawaii, where the sport is believed to have been invented. Petroglyphs (rock carvings) in Hawaii, dating back to at least the 12th century, depict people riding waves. But the Chan Chan Museum near Huanchaco and the Larco Museum in Lima display ancient Peruvian ceramics that show people and gods surfing, fishing, and even carrying prisoners on caballitos. These artifacts date back to the first century B.C., if not earlier, suggesting that Peruvians may have been the earliest surfers in history.
The caballito de totora wasn’t just a fishing tool; it also had spiritual and cultural significance. According to Peruvian historian Enrique Amayo Zevallos, ancient Peruvians also used a similar craft called a “tupe,” made from a combination of totora reeds, bamboo, and sea lion skin. The tupe was used exclusively for surfing and ceremonial purposes, making riding the waves a sacred tradition. However, the practice ended when the Spaniards banned indigenous rituals they considered pagan.
A craft on the verge of extinction
Today, the surviving fishermen of Huanchaco still use the caballito to catch fish, but their numbers are dwindling. As the local fishing industry becomes less profitable due to competition from larger commercial boats, erosion, and pollution, many of the younger generation have turned away from fishing and turned to tourism or have left the village altogether. In the 1990s, about 200 fishermen used the caballito; today, only about 40 remain.
The turning away of the younger generation from fishing is not the only threat facing the caballito tradition. The totora reeds used to make the boats are becoming scarce. As development increases along the coast, the swamps where totora grow are being filled in to make room for hotels, restaurants, and surf shops. While some land has been set aside to grow totora, it’s not enough to meet the demand of even a few dozen fishermen. To compensate, some fishermen have begun using discarded plastic bottles and Styrofoam to fill in the empty space in the reeds. While this helps them continue their craft, it’s a far cry from the original caballito design.
Preserving Tradition: Tourism to the Rescue? The decline of traditional fishing has forced the people of Huanchaco to find new ways to keep their caballito tradition going. Some local fishermen have begun offering rides to tourists on their reed boats, turning their ancient craft into a tourist attraction. For around 50 Peruvian soles (around £10), visitors can experience a caballito ride, feeling the waves crash beneath them as they sit in the hollow part of the boat, where fish and nets are usually stored.
While these rides may not have the thrill of riding a modern surfboard, they offer tourists a unique way to connect with Huanchaco’s history. Hopefully as more tourists come to experience the caballito, the demand will help keep the tradition alive and spark renewed interest among the younger generation.
A labour of love
Making the caballito is no easy task; it requires a lot of skill and knowledge, passed down through generations. Fishermen must know how to properly grow, harvest and dry the totora reeds. They then carefully tie the reeds so that their triangular stems fit together perfectly, creating a perfect shape
