The hills of Sardinia hold a secret that few have discovered: a hidden pasta school nestled in a centuries-old ghost town. Known as Battista, this abandoned village was once full of life, but fell into disrepair after its last inhabitants, Simonetta Bazzu’s grandparents, moved to Olbia for modern conveniences. Yet, through her passion and ingenuity, Bazzu has breathed new life into this forsaken place, turning it into a vibrant hub for Sardinian culinary arts.
A journey through time
I arrived in Battista after a scenic drive that took me through winding roads and lush valleys, a stark contrast to the bustling streets of Olbia and the blue waters of Porto Cervo. As I walked past sheep who seemed unconcerned about the traffic, I felt like I was stepping back in time. Battista, with its 400-year-old stone houses and rugged charm, seemed to exist in a different era.
The house I was welcomed into was a traditional stazzu – an ancient granite dwelling typical of the region’s farmers and shepherds. Although it had been vacant for four decades, careful restorations by Buzzu’s father had preserved its historic essence. The stone fireplace, original cooking stove and traditional stone flooring all told the story of the village’s past. Still, the flat-screen TV in the corner served as a subtle reminder that even though we were surrounded by history, we were still in the present.
As I settled down on a plush white sofa, my host Simonetta Buzzu, a striking figure who resembled a young Sophia Loren, greeted me with warmth and enthusiasm. She radiated a sophisticated charm and was as charming as the setting. Her passion for Sardinian traditions and cuisine was evident in every detail of her home and her work.
Reviving a Ghost Town
Buzzu’s dream was to not only preserve his island’s culinary heritage, but to enrich it. Now, the Battista Village, transformed under his vision, reflects his commitment to this mission. The village, where his ancestors once lived, has been reborn as a culinary school and cultural center. Buzzu owns eleven of these ancient stazzu, and three of them have been revived to reflect a blend of historic charm and modern elegance.
One stazzu has been converted into a wine cellar, another into a pasta and bread museum, and the third—the two-room stazzu where Buzzu’s great-grandparents lived—has been transformed into a state-of-the-art pasta-making kitchen. This kitchen, with an outdoor wood-burning oven and a charming patio, is the centerpiece of Buzzu’s culinary enterprise.
Launched in 2019 under the name Vittoria Arimanni, Buzzu’s brand reflects his dedication to teaching traditional Sardinian pasta-making. Their mission is twofold: to preserve these culinary traditions and inspire Sardinia’s younger generation to stay connected to their roots.
A Cooking Class
Buzzu’s Pasta School is not just a cooking class; it’s a journey through Sardinia’s rich gastronomic history. During the tourist season from May to October, Buzzu offers two classes a day. Each class is not just a cooking lesson; it’s an immersive experience of Sardinian culture and history. Guests are served a sumptuous meal made from local produce, including fruits and vegetables from Buzzu’s own garden, homemade cheese and wine.
I had the privilege of experiencing one such meal. The dining table, decorated with rustic elegance, was filled with dishes that told stories of Sardinian life. Rose petals adorned wooden plates, and crusty bread was served with homemade lemon marmalade and a unique powder made from dried orange peel. Each dish was accompanied by a story of Buzzu’s childhood and the traditions of his ancestors.
The highlight of the meal was the coffee, a distinctive drink that Buzzu made himself from acorns by roasting and grinding them. The coffee was rich in nutrients, reflecting the resourcefulness of his ancestors, who made do with what the land offered in times of scarcity. This historical touch is a reminder of how Sardinia’s cuisine evolved out of necessity and ingenuity.
Preserving Heritage Through Education
Buzzu’s dedication to preserving Sardinian traditions goes beyond his cooking school. He has dedicated himself to teaching these culinary arts to young Sardinians for free, with the hope that they will continue these practices and pass them on to future generations. His goal is to create an impact that fosters pride in Sardinian heritage and encourages young people to stay on the island and contribute to its cultural and economic revitalization.
The road to achieving this vision was not easy for Buzzu. After earning a law degree in Milan and managing her father’s construction company for 14 years, she faced skepticism from her family and peers when she chose to work as a pasta maker. Her father, in particular, had trouble understanding why she was giving up a successful career.